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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.